Post · bonfire.mavnn.eu

Post

The original power supply is split in the middle and held by clips. Nobody wants that, so I made a flat base and a cover, and added holders for heat-set threaded inserts.

In addition to the 24V for the TS-101, I need 12V for the fume extractor. In order to avoid accidentally swapping the power cables, I chose 3-pin panel-mount Molex Micro-Fit connectors, and I’ll connect 12V and 24V to different pins. 2/

#3DPrinting #CAD #OnShape #Electronics #DIY

2 media

The power supply cover, upside down, with the opening and guides for the C6 connector. In the corners are two cylinders with holes for threaded inserts.

Top view of the control panel, with two 3-pin Micro-Fit connectors, two rocker switches, and the icon of a fan and a soldering iron embossed in the middle.

Ölbaum

@[email protected] replied · 6 days ago

The original power supply is split in the middle and held by clips. Nobody wants that, so I made a flat base and a cover, and added holders for heat-set threaded inserts.

#3DPrinting #CAD #OnShape #Electronics #DIY

2 media

Ölbaum

@[email protected] replied · 6 days ago

The Micro-Fit were the smallest-footprint panel-mount connectors that I could find that are oriented, can carry 3 Amps, and cannot be easily shorted by a flying metal part. The other contenders were 5.5mm Barrel jack (can easily be shorted, and are generally crap,) and Mini-XLR (unshrouded pins, easy to short as well, and larger footprint.)

The Micro-Fit protrude a little bit, which I’m not a fan of, so I recessed the control panel. 3/

#3DPrinting #CAD #OnShape #Electronics #DIY

Side view of the power supply. The switches and connectors protrude from the control panel, but since the latter is recessed, they stay lower than the main top face.

Ölbaum

@[email protected] replied · 6 days ago

I would have liked XT-30 or XT-60 connectors, but the footprint of panel-mounts is enormous, and it’s also unshrouded pins on that side.

For the 12V, I’m adding a step-down converter. The ones I found with a small enough footprint don’t have mounting holes, so I experimented quite a lot with how to fasten it to the bottom plate.

I opted for a TPU clip-on holder that I can fix to the case with glue or double-sided tape. I hope it allows me to get the PCB in and out even when glued. 4/

3 media

Top view of the control panel, with a panel-mount XT-30 connector with large screw wings next to it. It’s so large it’s wider than the panel.

View on the bottom plate of the power supply, with the top lifted. A small PCB sits on the surface, with a holder that clips it from the long edges and from the centre of the short edges.

Side view of the PCB and holder, showing that it’s exactly the width of the PCB, and how the clips extend slightly above it.

Ölbaum

@[email protected] replied · 6 days ago

I have to add that any advice is welcome. It’s my first 3D printing project, so I don’t know how it will turn out.

I’m probably over-engineering the TPU holder, but it seems safer than built-in clips made of PLA, or whatever filament I will use to print the case, because I can test different sizes, and it’s less likely to break if I make it too thin.

By the way, which material do you recommend? I’ll be printing at my local maker space, so I have options. 5/

#3DPrinting #CAD #Electronics

Main view of the power supply again. You know, for eye candy.

Graham Sutherland / Polynomial

@[email protected] replied · 6 days ago

@oscherler I'll be interested to see whether your slicer puts support material on those bottom fillets.

bonfire.mavnn.eu

News and community around mavnn.eu projects.

bonfire.mavnn.eu: About · Code of conduct · Privacy ·

Bonfire social · 1.0.1 no JS en

Automatic federation enabled